Turkey’s third-largest city is more relaxed than Istanbul: a long seafront, a young, liberal crowd, great food and some of the world’s most important ancient ruins within an hour’s drive. İzmir is also the easiest base for the Aegean coast.

1. Konak Square & Clock Tower

The ornate clock tower in Konak Square was built in 1901 and is the city’s most recognizable landmark. Next to it is the small, tiled Yalı Mosque, and the waterfront is a few steps away.

Tip: It’s the natural starting point. Kemeraltı Bazaar begins right behind the square.

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  • Time needed: 20–30 minutes.
  • Tickets: Free.
  • Getting there: Metro to Konak, or a ferry to Konak pier from across the bay.
  • Nearby: Yalı Mosque, Kemeraltı Bazaar, the waterfront promenade towards the Kordon.
  • Good to know: The square fills with pigeons, families and street vendors. It’s at its liveliest in the early evening.

2. Kemeraltı Bazaar

A maze of market streets dating back centuries, full of spice sellers, copper workers, tailors, cafés and old hans (merchant inns). It’s a working market rather than a tourist bazaar, which is exactly its charm.

Tip: Find Kızlarağası Han, an 18th-century inn with a courtyard café, and try a Turkish coffee or boyoz, İzmir’s own flaky pastry.

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  • Time needed: 2–3 hours.
  • Tickets: Free.
  • Closed: Many shops close on Sundays.
  • Getting there: A short walk inland from Konak Square, or metro to Konak or Çankaya.
  • Nearby: Kızlarağası Han, Hisar Mosque, Havra Sokağı (the old Jewish quarter’s synagogue street), the Agora of Smyrna.
  • Good to know: It’s easy to get lost, which is half the fun. Bring cash for the small food stalls.

3. Kordon Promenade

The Kordon is the seafront promenade running north from Konak to Alsancak, with grassy strips along the water, bars and fish restaurants. In the evening half the city seems to be out here.

Tip: Come at sunset, when the light over the bay is at its best. Alsancak’s back streets are full of bars and restaurants.

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  • Time needed: 1–2 hours for a walk, longer with dinner.
  • Tickets: Free.
  • Getting there: Walk north from Konak along the water, or take the ferry to Pasaport or Alsancak pier.
  • Nearby: Alsancak’s bars and restaurants, the Atatürk Museum on the seafront, Pasaport pier.
  • Good to know: The breeze off the bay (the “imbat”) keeps summer evenings pleasant. Locals picnic on the grass at sunset.

4. Asansör (Historic Elevator)

Built in 1907 by a Jewish merchant to save locals a climb up 155 steps, the Asansör lifts you up the cliff in the old Karataş neighborhood. At the top is a terrace with a view over the whole bay.

Tip: Walk the Dario Moreno Street stairs next to it, and explore Karataş, once home to İzmir’s Jewish community.

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  • Time needed: 30 minutes.
  • Tickets: Free.
  • Getting there: In Karataş on Mithatpaşa Caddesi, about 2 km south of Konak. Take a bus or taxi along the coast road.
  • Nearby: Dario Moreno Street and its stairs, Karataş’s old synagogues, the seafront at Karataş.
  • Good to know: There’s a terrace café and restaurant at the top. Come at sunset for the best view over the bay.

5. Ephesus

Technically a day trip, but no list of İzmir’s top sights is complete without it. Ephesus was one of the largest cities of the Roman Empire, and walking down its marble streets to the Library of Celsus is unforgettable.

Tip: Arrive at opening time; it gets very hot and there’s little shade. Add the Terrace Houses (separate ticket) for their mosaics. The town of Selçuk nearby has the Ephesus Museum, and the hill village of Şirince is close by.

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  • Time needed: 2–3 hours, plus about an hour for the Terrace Houses.
  • Tickets: Paid, with a separate ticket for the Terrace Houses.
  • Getting there: About 75 km south of İzmir. Take the İZBAN train or a bus to Selçuk, then a taxi or shuttle 3 km to the site. Driving takes about an hour.
  • Nearby: The Ephesus Museum and the Basilica of St John in Selçuk, the hill village of Şirince, the House of the Virgin Mary.
  • Good to know: The site has two entrances (upper and lower). Starting at the upper gate means walking downhill the whole way. Bring water, a hat and sunscreen.

Getting around: the İZBAN commuter train runs from İzmir towards Selçuk for Ephesus. In the city, the ferries across the bay are cheap and scenic.

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